Spirited Away at the City of Sadness – Jiufen, Taipei

I cannot remember when was the last time I visited Taipei. Or what brought me there. It is good that I keep a blog. Within seconds, I got my answer. My last Taipei trip was almost 3 years ago – with Hovman! (It was the day Mrs Lee Kuan Yew passed away). Instead of switching screen to continue writing this new post, I spent 1 hour browsing the old blogs of 2010. Time flew so quickly and it was only when I read the old blogs, I realised so many major life episodes happened since my last Taipei visit.

There have been many small changes around in Taipei. The airport had completed its new facelift less than 2 years ago. I thought I arrived at a different new terminal. New Taipei taxis are equipped with multiple innovative external cameras that alert drivers of potential “blind spots dangers”. Newer and bigger condominiums sprouted along the streets. The city seems greener and cleaner without the massive road construction blockage of 2010.

3 years seem like a long time. I couldn’t remember some of my favorite dining haunts. By sheer luck, I managed to find my way back to one of the first fancy restaurants I visited back in 2007 – The Herbs Villa. The night markets (通化街夜市 & 士林夜市) and Ximending (西門町) remain the same. Most of the major malls (Sogo, Eslite, Bookstore, Taipei 101) stay unchanged too. With only 2 short days, I decided to visit a couple of places that I have never visited.

First stop, I made my way to the top of Taipei 101. I wanted to experience the “Ferrari” of all elevators (world’s fastest elevator at Taipei 101) and to capture the sunset view of Taipei city. I arrived at the tower 30 minutes before dusk. Unfortunately, my journey up to the top deck was delayed by a long queue of Chinese tourists! It only took the world’s fastest elevator 37 seconds 382m up to the 89th storey but it took me 45 minutes to clear the 50m queue. In the end, I didn’t get my sunset and the rain clouds blocked most of the good views. What a pity.

The next day, I booked a “Spirited Away” tour to visit a northern coastal town of Taiwan – Jiufen (九份). I have no luck with the weather. Despite sunny blue sky weather in Taipei, it was stormy wet at Jiufen. I had lots of expectation of this place. It was an old gold town littered with rich Japanese and Taiwanese history. It was said that the enchanted town in animation “Spirited Away” was inspired by the meandering Japanese and Chinese-styled buildings of Jiufen.  It did strike a close resemblance of the animation except the lanes were cluttered with bargain-hunting tourists. I wished I have more time to explore this place at dusk when there will be much lesser crowd. This place was full of characters with lots interesting shops and different local delicacies to try. Jiufen was the venue where the award-winning (Venice Golden Lion Winner) film “A City of Sadness” (悲情城市) was shot. Given the history and setting of this place, on second thought, the rain and mist set a very nice ambience for my first visit to this “city of sadness”. (Thanks Brandon for reminding me that!)

Strange but true – this was my 8th trip to Taipei but the first time I explored the “rustic sites” outside city (excluding my past trips to Taichung, Kaohsiung and Kenting). I will be making more frequent trips back to Taipei in 2014 (since it is only an hour away from Hong Kong) to explore the northern and western towns of Taiwan. Accommodation and food are fantastic and value-for-money. Best of all, Taiwanese are extremely friendly, chatty, honest and warm.

Gareth’s Farewell Dinner at Hong Kong’s Shun Kee Floating Restaurant

CNN headlined this place as Hong Kong’s most buoyant dinner and The Guardian Post rated it as one of the top 10 seafood restaurants in Hong Kong. Thanks to Chowpo’s recommendation, we celebrated Gareth’s farewell dinner at one of the most unusual dining spots in Hong Kong! Extinct for more than a decade and returned in 2011, Shun Kee Floating Restaurant offers an authentic and rustic dining experience! Best of all, it serves great tasty sumptuous seafood! Even the most picky and harshest food critic like Gareth, enjoyed the dishes.

Hidden at the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, we took an underground tunnel below Excelsior hotel to the pier. A cluster of tiny floating dining boats were docked less than 20m away from the pier. Each boat can carry up to 12 diners. There is no need to share boat with different people so you get complete privacy with your guests. There is a minimum spending of HKD1080/boat for a set dinner for 2 and it can easily triple up to a few couple thousands for a bigger group. Diners must make reservation before coming as there are limited boats.

While at the pier, we waited for our own exclusive dining boat. 2 boat-women rowed the boat by the pier and we were seated on the dinning table. The boat-women rowed our boat to the floating kitchen where all the other dining boats were tied to. There, we met the chefs and watched them in action! Surprisingly, the boat wasn’t rocking or swaying too badly. The only time when the boat swayed violently was when I walked around to take photos of the surrounding. The dining boat offered a great view of Victoria Harbour. Breezy, dim and quiet, we had a great time on the boat. I had a great time watching the chefs in action on the floating kitchen and saw how the waitresses served the dishes crossing from boat to boat.

The verdict? If you do not suffer from any sea-sickness and a seafood lover, I would strongly recommend you to try out at this unique rustic floating restaurant! Forget about the touristic, not-so-authentic and pricy Jumbo Floating Palace at Aberdeen, Shun Kee’s seafoods are just so irresistible fresh and tasty. You must certainly try its iconic dish, the 避风塘 crabs! I bet this blog is going to generate lots of dinner requests from my friends and families! Yes, as long as you treat me, I am always happy to bring you there and be your best dining photographer!

Phone reservation: +852 8112 0075 (Cash only). Website: http://www.shunkeeseafood.com/

Brother 风 is here again!

3 times cannot be simply mere coincidence. For that, I must say my Brother 风 (Gareth) is jinxed. The first time he arrived in August 2008, he brought his typhoon (No.9) girlfriend “Nuri” with him. The second time he returned in April 2010, he brought thick fog that blanketed the whole of Hong Kong. This Mid Autumn weekend, he returned with a big bad bunny – Typhoon Usagi (means Rabbit in Japanese).

Thanks to my jinxed brother who thwarted my perfect plan, we have to cut short our weekend holidays to returned to Hong Kong. My last flood crisis in Guangdong cities was terrifying and I do not wish to repeat the same terrible experience. We managed to catch the early train back to Hong Kong this morning to avoid the flood. Thankfully, we made the wisest choice. Super Typhoon Usagi is the largest storm in 34 years.

The Typhoon 8 signal was hoisted at 7pm. Since we were all being house-arrest, I dragged Brother 风 out to get a feel of this “money-cannot-buy” experience. Armed with 2 weak umbrellas, we braved the streets and piers to “catch the wind”. Honestly, the typhoon wasn’t so strong. At 8pm, the streets and IFC Airport Express were eerily empty, it was like walking in Zombie Land. We weren’t the only crazy ones on the streets. We saw many photographers and tourists at the edge of Victoria Harbour, enjoying this unique experience.

Under the full moon with Jay Chou

Last evening, I spent Mid Autumn Festival with a couple special people – Tracy, Kelly, Chowpo and a very special idol, Jay Chou. It is Jay’s 6th show (Opus Jay World Tour) at Hong Kong’s Hung Hom Coliseum.

Compared with his last tour in 2011, Jay was a lot chattier last night. He wooed and flirted with the crowd in mostly Cantonese last night. It was a rewarding night for all his old fans. Jay delivered many old hits from his earlier albums. It was like one big karaoke night with Jay.

Despite the raving reviews from Beijing, Singapore and Taiwan, Jay’s vocal performance last night wasn’t his best. I hate to compare his voice with those contenders of China’s singing talent shows but he was not in his usual form. There were a couple of songs when Jay’s couldn’t even delivered smoothly. I believe he was exhausted after performing 5 straight shows. At some point, his voice was squeaking so softly that I couldn’t even hear him. The sound system was bad too. Also, Jay was trying too many roles – he wanted to be seen as a multi-talented artiste but I felt he should focus more on his voice rather than pulling up with new theatrical acts that dilute his talent as a musician. You simply cannot sing, rap, play instruments, act, beat-box and dance well at the same time.

On the positive side, the overall stage design, pyrotechnics and visual effects were good. This is one area where Jay beat the other artistes. The highlight of the night was when Jay sang a duet with the late legendary songstress, Teresa Teng. It was supposed to be an awesome union of 2 legendary singers. Unfortunately, Jay’s vocal let the show down. It was less of a harmonious duet; Jay just couldn’t keep up to the high notes with Teresa. What a pity.

Overall, I had a good time last night. It could have been better. Song after song, Jay triggered back many fond memories. This was certainly not his best performance. Despite this bad reviewJay is doubtlessly a very talented, original and explorative artiste. Afterall, his songs have accompanied me since 2000 and Jay will always be my all-time favourite idol.

Well, no encore for Jay’s concert last night. Nonetheless, this is one very special and memorable Mid Autumn Festival for me.

Wood Block Pillow

(Photo Taken: Wood Block Pillows from Shanghai – Looks can be so deceiving. These furry wood blocks are so soft and comfortable. Time to use these wood blocks for your next pillow-fight! Each block is about 45cm long. Cost: RMB50 each.)

Short Reunion in Shanghai

Right after I bid farewell to Elkan and Felicia at the gate, I hopped on the next flight to Shanghai with Chowpo. It was a very short business trip. I was glad that I was able to juggle my time between work and leisure. With only a couple of hours free, I managed to meet up with some of my close friends (Calvin, Echo, Johnny, Ming, Francis & Doreen) and cousin Yei. Thank you all for squeezing some free time to meet up dine and drink with me. It was certainly a very fulfilling reunion (I gained another 2 sinful kilograms)! I guess we have to think of new “gathering activity” the next time we meet. I cannot eat and drink at every gathering. Nevertheless, thanks for showing me all the new attractions of Shanghai. Special thanks to Johnny and Ming who treated me to such a beautiful scenic dining place. Hope to see you guys soon! It is always good to be back!

A Surprise Adventure for Felicia and Elkan – Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (11th – 14th Sept)

It was September School Holiday, Felicia and Elkan were in town for 10 days. I was clueless where to bring them around Hong Kong. For the first 5 days, Elkan was lazing at home playing console games. I decided to give both of them a small surprise – their maiden trip to Vietnam!

As usual, I planned this trip at the very last minute. I am always seen as an impulse traveler. More than 65% of my travels were decided and departed within 48 hours. Let me correct my critics here, I am not an impulse person. I don’t like planning a trip many months ahead (unless it is a long difficult journey). Planning is for those who take a long to decide something. A long wait can develop different types of expectation that may leads to disappointment. When I want to travel, I just pack my bags and go. I like the feeling of freedom and instant gratification. There’s no need to plan, just do it. I like to discover as I go along. It feels more like an adventure.

Elkan was very excited when I told him that we would be exploring the underground-forested tunnels and swampy waterways. He likes adventure but he remains a very timid and careful boy. As much as possible, I would want to expose him to different parts of the world so he get to experience life outside his little shoebox universe in Singapore.

Day 1 – It was a short 2.5 hour flight from Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City. We arrived and checked into our hotel at 11:30am. By noon, we ventured out and I gave them a quick 4-hour city tour. I brought them to the city’s most popular tourist spots – The Central Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon Opera House, Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee City Hall, Reunification Palace, Ben Thanh Market and Dong Khoi shopping street. (Felicia and Elkan managed to recognise the location where Harshad shot his infamous conference video 2 years ago.) All the tourist attractions were located within walking distance from our hotel, it was very easy to explore the city center on foot.

Our last stop for the day – We visited the War Remnants Museum. Through the rich war history of Vietnam, Elkan learnt the important lesson of peace and harmony.  There, we saw many disturbing war photographs. This is my second visit to the War Remnants Museum and it still evokes a deep sense of grief and anger in me. These war stories reminded us the true value of peace and the pain of wars. For a country that went through 2,000 years of war (first against the Chinese, the Mongolian, then the French, the Japanese  and finally the American), Vietnam underwent many generations of untold and unimaginable sufferings. The last war may have ended more than 20 years ago but the aftermath of the chemical war crimes continue to haunt its victims and their next generations. It is a lesson that Syria must heed from Bosnia and Vietnam. War is simply senseless and victory-less. No one wins – except those merchants of wars.

Day 2 – We woke up at 6:30am and went on a half-day tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Along the way, the travel guide brought us to a Vietnamese lacquer-ware factory where handicapped war victims work. There, we were given a brief introduction of lacquer-ware making. Despite the emotionally story of supporting the war-victims through purchasing these products, I didn’t buy anything from this factory. The prices of these handicrafts weren’t cheap. All the items were priced 300% more than the ones in the city. Clearly, this was a “tourist-shopping-trap”.

We had lots of fun at the Cu Chi Tunnels. The Viet Cong built these tunnels as a defence network against the offensive American troops. During the war, the tunnels served as a communication and supply-routes for the Viet Cong. The tunnels housed soldiers and their families. Some of these tunnels extended over 200km long and 10m deep. Presently, many of these tunnels were lit with lights and made wider and taller to house the bigger-sized tourists.

Both Felicia and Elkan successfully descended into the original A4-size ground hole. I didn’t bother to attempt, as I know my chubby body won’t fit into the small entrance. Tunnel walking was a breeze for Elkan but not for the adults. Almost all the adults came out of the narrow 40m long tunnel with tiring perspired expressions, except for Elkan. He was the only one who wanted to go for a second round. Elkan was bursting with energy. Instead of doing 1 underground tunnel crawl, he managed to persuade the tour guide to let him explore more underground tunnels.

The weather was unpredictably hot, humid and stormy, I was too tired to go anywhere else. After Cu Chi Tunnels, we headed back to our hotel where I took a short nap. Later in the evening, I met up with a good Singaporean friend, Kelvin for dinner. He brought us to a very cozy and beautifully decorated shop house for authentic Vietnamese food.

Day 3 – We joined a group of Australian and Singaporean tourists to Mekong River. It was a full day tour. We started the day at 8am and returned at 6pm.

We had an excellent English-speaking local guide. The trip to Mekong River took 2 hours. Along the way, we saw many rice paddy plantations and old towns. We stopped by at a temple of giant Buddha and Goddess statues and a bus depot where I saw a kind tourist guide entered a lotus lake to retrieve a young girl’s watch.

All was well until Elkan broke down in tears at Mekong River. He was having a really bad stomachache. His frantic cries made everyone worried. The Australians and Singaporeans travelers were very kind and offered medicines and ointment oil. Even the local drink stall owners made hot ginger tea for him.

Elkan struggled the pains throughout the Mekong tour. His cries frightened the boatmen. Imagine this, we were the only one with a crying boy along the peaceful, scenic Mekong River. Every passing boat gave us that strange look. Elkan was screaming and crying on the boat.  We had an extraordinary express tour, the boatmen sensed the urgency of his condition and rowed the boat super fast. We reached the jetty ahead of everyone else. There, Elkan vomited and made a couple of “emergency toilet breaks”. It was so bad that we have to make an instant “temporary toilet shelter” for him out on the jetty. Fortunately, we were in this village where there were stalls selling t-shirts. We bought him a new t-shirt (as he vomited on the one he was wearing). This is certainly one painful and unforgettable trip for Elkan and his poor parents. Thankfully, the whole group of travelers was very understanding and kind towards our plight.

Just when we decided to cut short our tour and head back to the city, Elkan’s tummy wasn’t painful anymore. He was back to his old self – noisy, jumpy and naughty. My son is indeed a big joker. He certainly got everyone’s attention. He is one big chaotic charmer.

On our last night in Vietnam, we met up with my primary school friend, Rosline Heng. Her husband and her were stationed in Vietnam for many years. We missed an opportunity to meet up with her last month when they visited Hong Kong. Guess fate gave us a second chance to meet.

Tomorrow is the last day of our short adventure. We will be packing and heading back to Hong Kong for one more night. On Sunday, Felicia and Elkan will be flying back to Singapore and I will be heading north to Shanghai for a short business trip.

Guess I will be missing them for another 2 months before their next return in November. By then, I will be making another impromptu trip. Surely up north where northern lights glitter – the only questions are which country, with who and when.

Happy Time, Happy Meals

(Photo Taken: Another sinful seduction by McDonalds – Mini Food Magnets, Hong Kong)

Aftermath of Typhoon Utor

The delta cities were still blanketed by thick thunderstorm clouds 2 days after Typhoon Utor hit Hong Kong. The heavy downpour flooded many small towns in Guangdong and crippled the railway network. I was on my way to meet my friends in Dongguan when I found myself stranded at the Shenzhen Railway Station. It was chaotic and my train was delayed by 1.5 hours. To make things worst, passengers who were delayed hijacked the coaches. Patience ran thin and I witnessed ugly squabbles inside the cabin.  A group of angry Chinese travelers took their frustrations on a helpless waitress, demanding her to start the train. How absurd I thought, but this is China – when big bullies abuse the weaker ones. Just when I was about to play “hero” to defend the poor waitress, the train started.

When I arrived in Dongguan, I got a shock of my life. The main road outside the railway station was flooded. I couldn’t believe my eyes. Lionnel, Joey and I were just here last week! One car was half-submerged in the murky water. The water was at least a meter deep. The tunnel was completely shut down. There were a couple of damaged cars and tow-truck by the side of the road. I saw the frustrations of the drivers. I guess their cars were completely damaged.

The return trip to Hong Kong was just as bad. Trains were delayed by up to 2 hours. It was chaotic at the train station. People were yelling and pushing around. In the end, I booked a private car to Shenzhen instead. (A normal trip takes about 90 minutes. Yesterday, it took me 4 hours!) This was just a small flood and it crippled the network. The infrastructures and local authorities aren’t prepared at all. Worst of all, the local people – some are just selfish, vicious and ungraceful. I can imagine how chaotic it can be when a big crisis hit town the next time.

A Surprise Treat for Elkan in Jakarta – Blog by Felicia

BLOG BY FELICIA (11th Aug 2013)

A week before when I told Elkan, I need to go Jakarta for a 4-day work trip, he was reluctant to me go. He asked several times if he could come along as he didn’t want to be lonely during the long National Day holiday break. Unfortunately, I turned him down.

On Wed morning, I planned for my mum and Elkan to send me off at the airport first, before my mum fetch Elkan to school. At the check-in counter, after the usual procedures, the airline stuff called out Elkan and my name and passed him our passports. He took them, held my hand and was ready to go. I asked him to check the passports for me. He opened the first passport and read out the seat and gate number, read my name…. he opened the second passport, read out the seat and gate number and he slows down, read his name…. gave me a blank look…. frowned, smiled, frowned again and looked worried…. “Mummy, I’m going to school right? Why the boarding pass has my name? Why you have two passports?” I gave him a big eye look with a smile. “Ooooh….. I’m going to Jakarta with you!!!!” he exclaimed.

I was expecting a big hug from him, but instead, he started to cry and buried his face in my tummy! Confused, I asked him why. He said he will miss his friends in school and will have no chance to get his trophy for this year… He explained he was participating in the school’s sports event celebrating National Day. I didn’t realize that I’ve spoilt his day…. I felt really bad about it. This is one surprise that surprised me! But there was no turning back. So he walked in with me to the departure gate and waved a teary goodbye to his Poh Poh.

I tried to cheered him up saying he could watch a movie on board the plane and eat nice food. I’m glad he quickly became excited about the trip and was looking forward to it. In a short one and half hour flight, we arrived at Jakarta! Shin brought us out for brunch and some shopping.

This was a trip for me to take a look at the design and decor, and display of food in the cafe. And I get to sample lots of nice food too. Sounds all fun and eat non stop. Yes it is. While I was busy taking pictures and checking out the display at the cafe, Elkan warmed up in no time and made friends with the waiters. They helped him put on an apron and started to compete with one another to see who could give out more flyers! The most happy moment came when he gets to order any food he liked. He tried all the nasi dishes at Blacklisted on the first day. And his final verdict, the Nasi Campur (Steamed rice with Beef Redang, peanuts and sunny side up egg) is the best! He even liked the plain croissant which was an unlikely choice of his food.

Thanks to Dendy and Shin‘s hospitality, they brought us to different malls in town and we were cafe hopping. Elkan most enjoyed his morning motor scooting with Dendy and Wii time with Edward (Dendy’s brother). 4 days trip came to and end so quickly with our busy schedules. On the last day, Elkan was reluctant to return to Singapore. He played till the last minute on the motor scooter until the cab arrived to pick us up to the airport. It was a foodfulling trip! Enjoy the tasty pictures!